All 14 Maytag dryer codes
- AF / F4 E3Airflow restricted: check the lint screen and vent
- PFPower failure interrupted the cycle
- L2 / F4 E4Low or missing line voltage on an electric dryer
- ERRDoor isn't closed and latched
- F2 E1A control panel button is stuck
- F2 E4 / F2 E5Control panel internal fault
- F1 E1Main control board fault (motor relay)
- F1 E3 / F1 E4Control unit or wiring problem
- F3 E1Exhaust thermistor failure
- F3 E2Moisture sensor failure
- F3 E3Inlet thermistor failure
- F4 E1 / F4 E2Heater relay failure
- F6 E2 / F6 E3Communication failure between boards
- F7 E1Motor system error
About Maytag dryer error codes
Maytag is an American brand owned by Whirlpool Corporation. Because Maytag and Whirlpool share engineering, many Maytag appliances use the same F-and-E style codes, though the exact meaning can still differ by model, so check the code against your own appliance.
How to read Maytag dryer codes
Most current Maytag dryers, including the Centennial line, report faults as an F number plus an E number. The display flips back and forth between the two halves (F3, then E1), so watch it for a few seconds and write down both. Older Bravos dryers use a dash format instead, such as F-22 or F-28, and a few simple codes (AF, PF, L2, ERR) appear on many models.
Maytag's standard reset is to turn off the dryer's breaker(s), wait, turn them back on, start a Timed Dry cycle and watch the display. The wait is 1 minute for some codes and 5 minutes for others (F1 E4 and ERR call for 5), so when in doubt give it the full 5 minutes. An electric dryer is on a double breaker or two fuses; both need to go off.
Gas models: the reset is electrical only. Leave the gas line, shutoff valve and burner alone, and if you ever smell gas, get everyone out and call the gas company from outside.
Maytag also lists some codes (FC E1, F9 E2, E3 and dashes in the display) with nothing more than a reset procedure. If your code isn't on this page, do the 5-minute reset and check your owner's manual, then contact Maytag if it returns.
Of the 14 codes on this page, 3 usually have a simple fix you can do yourself, and 8 usually need a technician. Each guide says which is which, so you don't pay for a service call you don't need, and you don't attempt a repair that isn't safe.
Maytag dryer repair guides
- Dryer Not Heating? Electric and Gas Causes and Safe Fixes
Start with the free checks: a no-heat cycle such as Air Fluff, a tripped half of the 240-volt breaker on electric dryers, or a closed gas valve on gas models.
- Dryer Takes Too Long to Dry? Fix the Vent Before It's a Fire
When a dryer still heats but needs two cycles to finish a load, look at the exhaust vent first: lint buildup, a crushed duct behind the machine or a run that's too long are the usual reasons.
- Dryer Won't Start? Door, Breaker, Fuse and Switch Checks
Most dryers that won't start have a door that isn't fully latched, a start button that wasn't held for 2 to 5 seconds, a control lock that's on, or a tripped breaker.
- Dryer Making Noise? What Squeaks, Thumps and Rumbles Mean
A high squeal from the bottom of the dryer is usually the idler pulley, a steady thump is often a flat-spotted drum roller or a worn belt, and grinding at the front points to worn drum glides or felt seal.
- How to Replace a Dryer Belt: Step-by-Step With Idler Routing
If the motor runs but the drum doesn't turn, or the drum spins with no resistance by hand, the belt has almost certainly broken or slipped off the idler pulley.
Before you start
- Write down your model number. It's on a sticker, usually inside the door or lid, on the frame, or on the back or side panel. Parts and some code meanings depend on it.
- Try a reset. Unplug the dryer or switch off its breaker for 10 minutes. This clears many one-off glitches without tools.
- Clean the lint screen and check that the outside vent flap opens when the dryer runs. Restricted airflow causes many dryer codes and is a fire risk.
- On a gas dryer, if you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas company from outside.