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Washer Water inlet valve: What It Does and Signs It's Failing

The inlet valve sits at the back of the cabinet where the hot and cold hoses screw on. It opens when the control calls for water, and on many machines its separate outlets feed different dispenser compartments. Some valves come as an assembly with a flow meter or a water temperature sensor built in.

Who should replace it

Handy homeowners can replace it

Related codes

25 error codes on this site point to this part.

How it works

Each port has an electric solenoid that opens the valve while it's powered and lets it close when the power drops. A flow meter, where fitted, measures how much water has come in so the control can stop the fill at the right amount.

Signs it is failing

No-fill, slow-fill and overfill codes, plus flow meter faults, lead back here once the faucets, hoses and inlet screens check out. If the tub keeps filling after you pull the plug, the valve is stuck open.

Can you replace it yourself?

Shut both faucets and unplug the washer, then check the inlet screens first, since a plugged screen acts just like a dead valve. A swap means removing the top and back panels, unscrewing the hoses and moving the wire connectors across one at a time. Some replacement valves don't include the O-ring for the temperature sensor, so you may have to reuse the old one.

Always unplug the washer or switch off its breaker before opening any panel, and turn off water or gas where relevant.

Buying the right part

Check whether you need a single valve, a dual hot and cold valve or a full assembly with a flow meter or sensor. Not every valve ships with its mounting bracket.

Error codes linked to the water inlet valve

Last reviewed 2026-10-19.