A washer that won't start usually has one of three simple problems: the control lock is on, the door or lid isn't fully latched, or the Start button wasn't held long enough (Whirlpool says up to 3 seconds on many models). If the display is completely dark, check the outlet and the breaker first, then unplug the washer for 5 minutes to reset the control.
Dark display: confirm the washer has power
If nothing lights up when you press Power, the washer may not be getting electricity at all. Plug a lamp or phone charger into the same outlet. No power there means the problem is in the house wiring: look for a tripped breaker in the panel or a GFCI outlet nearby (laundry rooms often have one) that needs its Reset button pressed.
A breaker that trips again as soon as the washer runs is a warning sign, and resetting it over and over isn't a fix. Leave it off and have the washer or the circuit checked. Never open the outlet or the washer's wiring yourself.
If the outlet works but the washer stays dark, look at the cord where it enters the cabinet for damage, and make sure the plug is pushed all the way in. Plug the washer straight into a grounded three-prong outlet, without an extension cord or adapter in between.
Lit display but no response: turn off the control lock
The control lock (called Child Lock on LG and Samsung) freezes every button except the one that releases it. The display usually shows a padlock icon or a code such as LoC, LC or CL. Kids and cats switch it on by accident all the time.
How to release it depends on the brand:
- Whirlpool and Maytag: press and hold the lock key for 3 seconds. On some models the lock shares a button with an option such as Pet Pro or Steam; hold the button itself, not the label under it.
- LG: hold the Child Lock button (or the two buttons marked with the lock symbol) for 3 to 5 seconds with the washer powered on. LG notes the lock stays set even after the washer is switched off.
- Samsung: hold the two Child Lock buttons together. If the icon flashes instead of going out, hold them again.
- Damp controls can act like a locked panel. Samsung says moisture on the panel is normal in humid rooms; wipe it dry and try again.
Close and latch the door or lid properly
Every modern washer checks that the door or lid is shut before it will run. On a front-loader, a door that looks closed may not be pressed far enough in to engage the latch. Push it firmly until you hear the click. Whirlpool says the lock takes about 10 seconds to engage after the cycle starts, so a short wait before the drum moves is normal.
Top-loaders vary. Whirlpool notes that some of its models fill with the lid unlocked, while others won't do anything until the lid locks. If a sock or a fold of a towel is caught at the latch, the lock can't close. Open the lid, clear the latch area and try again.
A failed latch usually shows up as a code rather than a dead panel: F5E1 or F5E2 on Whirlpool, Maytag and Amana, dE on LG, dC on Samsung, E41 on Frigidaire. Those point to the door or lid lock assembly, which is a part replacement.
Hold the Start button longer
To stop accidental starts, many washers need Start held down instead of tapped. Whirlpool says to hold Start (or Push to Start) for up to 3 seconds, and some of its models count down on the display while you hold it.
Other brands do the same on some panels, so if a quick tap does nothing, try holding the button for a few seconds before assuming it's broken.
Check for a delay start or a paused cycle
A washer with a delay time set will accept the cycle, then sit idle until the timer runs down. The display usually shows the remaining delay in hours, or a Delay indicator light. Cancel the delay (or the whole cycle) from the control panel and start again; the exact button differs by model, so check the owner's manual if it isn't obvious.
Whirlpool's front-load help lists a few messages that look like faults but just mean the washer is waiting for you:
- Err: the cycle was changed while running, or Start was pressed with the door open.
- dr: three cycles in a row ran without the door being opened. Open and close it, then start again.
- -:--: the cycle knob points at a position with no cycle assigned. Turn it to a real cycle.
Make sure water is reaching the washer
Some washers start the cycle, then quit with a no-fill code when water doesn't arrive. Others seem to start but hum without filling. Both hot and cold faucets behind the machine should be fully open, and Whirlpool wants both hoses connected even if you only wash in cold.
Look for a kinked fill hose, especially if the washer was recently pushed back against the wall. If the faucets are open and the hoses look fine, the small screens where the hoses meet the washer may be clogged with sediment. Codes such as 4C (Samsung), IE (LG), F8E1 (Whirlpool and Maytag), E11 (Frigidaire and Electrolux) and H2O SUPPLY (GE) all mean the washer isn't getting enough water.
Reset the control by cutting power
Electronic controls can lock up after a power flicker or a storm. Pull the plug, or switch off the breaker, and leave the washer off for a while before restoring power. Whirlpool recommends 5 minutes. Samsung's guidance is 60 seconds. Waiting the full 5 minutes covers both.
LG washers display PF after a power interruption. Press Power, pick the cycle again and start it.
New washer that won't start or open
A brand-new front-loader can arrive with its door already latched from the trip, and it won't run until the control lets go. Connect the water and power and leave it alone for a few minutes; on Whirlpool models the release can take up to 8 minutes. Our front-load door guide walks through what you'll see during that wait.
When to call a professional
Call for service if the outlet has power but the washer's display stays dark, if the breaker trips whenever the washer starts, or if a door or lid lock code returns after you've cleared the latch and reset the power. Those point to a failed lock assembly, user interface board or main control, which need proper diagnosis.
Parts involved
- Door lock and lid lock
- Wire harness and power cord
- User interface board
- Main and motor control boards
- Inlet hoses and screens
- Water inlet valve
Error codes for this problem
- LoCControl Lock is onAmana
- LoCControl Lock is onAmana
- LOCControl lock is onMaytag
- CLChild lock is onBosch
- CLControl lock is onLG
- F5 E1Door switch problemAmana
- F5E1Door or lid switch does not detect it closedMaytag
- F5E1Door or lid switch not detecting closedWhirlpool
- F5 E2Door won't lockAmana
- F5E2Door or lid will not lockMaytag
- F5E2Door or lid won't lockWhirlpool
- F5E3Lid lock faultMaytag
- F5E3Door or lid lock errorWhirlpool
- F5 E1Door switch problemAmana
- F5E1Door or lid switch does not detect it closedMaytag
- F5E1Door or lid switch not detecting closedWhirlpool
- F5 E2Door won't lockAmana
- F5E2Door or lid will not lockMaytag
- F5E2Door or lid won't lockWhirlpool
- dELid is openGE
- dEDoor or lid won't lockLG
- dCDoor or lid not closed and lockedSamsung
- E41Door or lid reads as openFrigidaire
- doorDoor not closed or needs openingGE